
Pantry Portrait: Noah Hammer
The chef behind the Onigiri Noah pop-up takes us through his pantry made up of ingredients inspired by his upbringing in the US and Japan, including a reimagined ice cream topping from a pantry staple!
I was born in a small town in Japan called Mashiko and grew up in New York. After working in finance and tech, I realized what I really wanted to do was work with food—specifically rice. It’s the ingredient I’m most obsessed with. It’s simple–and I’ll risk sounding overly dramatic–but can be really nuanced. I’m constantly thinking about how to highlight its texture and flavor.
Right now, I run onigiri pop-ups around NYC, mostly in Brooklyn (shoutout to Kato Sake Works, Rule of Thirds, and Jubilee / 20 Grams). I keep the menu tight and rotate fillings based on what I’m excited about—whether it’s kombu or kakuni simmered for hours or a keema curry that takes me back to my favorite cafe in 西荻窪. My goal is to open a spot that’s casual, comforting, and a little nostalgic—shaped by the food and experiences I grew up with in the States and Japan.
Noah's Top Seven
Japanese Canned Mackerel
I always keep a few cans of Japanese mackerel, usually the Aiko Chan brand. Aiko is my grandma’s name, so that’s kind of cool. I’ll get guff from friends but I tend to eat it straight up. If I take a moment though, I’ll lay it over some piping hot rice with sesame oil, scallion and tsuyu. Shout out to canned saury too.
Sōmen
This is my favorite summer noodle. It cooks in minutes, has a great texture, and is super refreshing when served cold with tsuyu (diluted with water and ice). My mom would top it with julienned cucumber and kinshi tamago, but you can throw on whatever fresh toppings you’ve got.
Sesame seed oil
Just an x-factor ingredient. Sesame oil and scallion tend to elevate any savory dish, in my opinion. And if you drizzle it over ice cream, it somehow turns into this peanut-buttery third flavor that works way better than it should.
Olive oil is the GOAT. There’s a reason why everyone flies through it. Graza put the team on its back with this one.
Lao Gan Ma
I’m sorry to all my Japanese friends but Lao Gan Ma is what raayu wishes it could be. I did try it on ice cream though, but it didn’t work. Everything else… fantastic.
Salt
Every form of salt has a place in my heart, but plain old Mortons absolutely does the trick. I feel most kitchens tend to use Diamond Crystal but I’ve kind of gotten used to working with Mo’. Regardless, salt is cheap and saying it’s essential wouldn’t even do it justice.
Sugar
Sugar is a sneaky one. Not quite x-factor ingredient, but an honorable mention. Try adding it to some of your favorite dishes (where you wouldn’t normally) and I’d bet it works.